The Daily Gamecock

Issue date: 2/18/08 Section: The Mix

Media Credit: Courtesy of Groucho's

Whenever I walk into Groucho's Deli, I feel remarkably uncomfortable. I'm not exactly sure what it is that makes me feel uncomfortable. Perhaps it is the overabundance of seating, the confusing service method or simply the way the employees look at me. Regardless, I have never walked into Groucho's and felt welcome.

Groucho's has been a recognizable name in South Carolina for nearly 70 years now. Opened in 1941 by Harold "Groucho" Miller, a Jewish man from Philadelphia, the deli has grown substantially and now boasts a total of 17 locations throughout the Carolinas, with one scheduled to open soon in Pawley's Island. The restaurant got its name from Miller's similarity to Groucho Marx. The restaurant claims that to Columbia, Miller just seemed like a "really crazy kind of guy."

In any case, I visited the Groucho's in Five Points this weekend. Hailing from the North, I've encountered plenty of Jewish delis in my day. And while the food certainly lives up to the reputation the deli has earned over the years, the atmosphere does not. Instead of being quickly ushered along and having my order demanded of me like I am used to, I am politely helped by the youthful staff. I think this is ultimately the nature of my discomfort in the store. The politeness of the deli leads to my distrust of the establishment.

What throws me off, however, is how Groucho's employees serve their customers as if they were in a restaurant. This is ultimately inconvenient, leaving the customer with an obligation to participate in unnecessary service-related dialogue and a need to tip. And when you're short on change, as I'm sure many of the readers of this column are, being forced into a tipping situation leads to a feeling of disdain for the joint.

However, if you do have some bills to burn, Groucho's might just be your type of place. The food, though served in smaller portions than in many delicatessens I've been to, is excellent. I tried what I perceived to be Groucho's signature sandwich, the STP Dipper. In fact, Groucho's is so dedicated to the STP Dipper that the name is trademarked. In any case, this sandwich is laden with roast beef, turkey, Swiss cheese melt and bacon bits on a sub roll and served with Groucho's signature "45" sauce or "Danish Bleu" sauce. I had the "45" sauce, and it demands to be double-dipped. The sandwich was very fresh and ultimately satisfactory.

Though the food is excellent, the combination of its strange atmosphere, steep prices and terrible hours (11 a.m. - 4 p.m., Mon. - Sat) led me to give the deli only two stars.

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