How to: Surf
Even though the Northern Hemisphere is chilling into fall due to El Niño or La Niña or climate change or socialized medicine — I didn't do well in science — there are still a few weekends on the water left. That means weekends potentially spent deep-sea fishing, reading a book on the beach or, for those feeling some active relaxation, surfing. This aquatic pastime is a much quicker grasp than you might think, as long as you take the initiative and commit to doing it. If you're a quick learner, you could be shredding the waves before the Auburn game.
1. Sit on the board
Once you've paddled your way out past the white caps, the next step is to find your balance. This is accomplished by sitting on the board comfortably. You should be able to jerk, twist or turn in the sitting position and still have a solid balance. If you can reach that perfect equilibrium and calmly watch the bodysurfers, flying umbrellas and shoobies before you, then, at the very least, you should have a nice day at the beach. This will get your attitude right for surfing.
2. Wait for the right wave
Once you're sitting, you might get antsy and want to ride the first one you see. This would be a mistake. Different waves are for different people, depending on your size and level of expertise. Top-heavy waves might force you under, and the little speedsters will blow right past you without the slightest interaction. The slow-rollers are ideal for starters.
3. PADDLE!
So you've found something close to the perfect wave. She's a little tall, but you're ready for a challenge. Lay down in roughly the same spot you were sitting and face the beach. It's up to those rapid-firing arms to get you in position. Keep in front of the wave and fall back slightly to the sweet spot when you feel it ascend. Now, it's time to rise to the precipice. Facing that three foot mountain below you filled with minnows, or facing a 10-foot drop with sharks and jellyfish waiting pretending that they are only minnows — the key here is not to get distracted. Surfing is about two things: form and not being afraid.
4. “Do Less”
These wise words of Koonu from "Forgetting Sarah Marshall" hold true to all surfers. Just pop up and feel it. Learning how to surf is a process — a beautiful process. “Hanging Ten” can't be accomplished until you become one with the wave. The wave does not act, it complies. Be one with the wave. Comply.
More Like This
