This is how you know you’ve come to the right place: when the person you’re interviewing didn’t get the memo you were going to show up, but drops everything to talk shop anyway.
Melissa Wright, the manager at Burger Tavern 77, was casually cool as we sat down to talk about the restaurant. She kept insisting that she didn’t know how much help she’d be to me, but we eased into conversation quickly. One thing was apparent to me: she is at home here.
Wright has been in food service for many years, and has that industry air about her. Before working at 77, Wright worked in a restaurant in Salt Lake City, Utah.
“I didn’t know you were from Utah,” said a server who was listening in on the conversation.
“I’m not,” Wright said in a way that meant, “Get back to work.”
The waiter went sheepishly back to his section. Like I said, she’s got an aura.
Wright has an attitude that serves 77 well. The building itself used to be a filling station back in the day, and the atmosphere reflects that sort of coming-and-going outlook. Wright is like the mother we left at home when we came to college, concerned that we’re not eating enough, making sure we wear our jackets in the cold.
(When our photographer, Kamila, went to take exterior shots of the building, Wright almost fell out of her chair trying to get Kamila to put a jacket on. “You’ll freeze,” she said, then laughed. “Do I sound like somebody’s mother?”)
The burgers at 77 are made from 8.5 ounces of USDA certified chuck. This means two things. First, “you’re not gonna be hungry” after eating, as Wright put it. And second, you can get your patty rare.
“It’s a cool pink center,” Wright said when she disappeared into the kitchen to place my order. “Scares the crap out of people.”
If you’ve never had a rare piece of meat before now, I suggest your first taste comes from Burger Tavern 77. Not only do they have a comprehensive menu (including a build-your-own burger feature with more options than you’ll know what to do with) with a burger for everyone, but also they have paired a beer to go with it. It’s a great way to trick your friends into thinking you’re the next up-and-coming beer connoisseur on the Cola craft circuit.
Speaking of which, 77 hosts several local beers in a few of their 28 taps.
And for college students, 77 makes you feel right at home. Plus, it’s a great place to watch the game when you didn’t swing a football ticket.
“People love to come in and yell at tall the TVs,” Wright said. “Unless you sit in the bathroom, you can see a TV everywhere in this place.”
They’ve got hand-battered fried jalapenos as well as fried pickles which are both tasty, dipped in their house-made spicy mayo. It’s difficult to find a balance between fried and fresh, but 77’s pickles get it just right. These aren’t your mama’s state fair-fried pickles.
“I did get an unsolicited endorsement from a 5-year-old one time that our fries are better than McDonald’s,” Wright said.
The kid is right. Their shoestring Jo Jo Fries are lightly breaded, tender and extremely addictive. You can’t eat just one.
I had what’s called The Charleston. It’s an all-beef patty with pimento cheese and bacon on top served on an onion roll. Let me just say that I don’t typically eat pimento cheese, but I would happily eat this burger again, cheese and all.
The sandwich was smoky with bacon and salty with cheese. The buttery bun caught all the drippings from the patty’s tender center, which, as promised, was a nice pink color. The sandwich was big enough that you’ll always have a meaningful mouthful. And when you factor in the sweet pickles, it’s not hard to understand why this burger is one of Burger Tavern 77’s best sellers.
While I was busy with my burger, Wright was buttoning her coat.
“I’m going out back,” she said, preparing to rearrange boxes from a shipment that had come in. “But if y’all need anything at all, you let me know.”
She disappeared behind the kitchen door and out into the cold. A neon sign flickered in the window. My plate was clean. Somewhere, someone laughed.
Ah, yes. The kindness of strangers.
What you want:
The Charleston — $9.95
An order of fried pickles or jalapenos — $6.50
Jo Jo Fries on the side, always